Vintage
Vintage at Brokenwood is the most vibrant and exhausting time of year. The team of regular staff is bolstered by a constantly evolving team of itinerant wine industry workers as part of our vintage exchange programme, which takes in young winemakers from Italy, New Zealand, as well as Australia.
Binding all of this together is the vintage chef, who makes breakfast, lunch and dinner for all the crew, and anyone who happens to be in cellar door at the right time.
Vintage commences as early as January, when the Hunter Valley fruit is picked. Semillon is the first variety to come in. Vintage lasts until April, when the last of the fruit from the cooler climate regions is picked.
2010
Preliminary Report 29th January 2010
One of the joys of the Hunter Valley, apart from the wines, is the enthusiasm of the younger brigade of winemakers. Sarah Crowe for instance was with Brokenwood for a number of years, won the Hunter Wine Industry Award for Rising Star last year and is now off running another local winery. Her place has been filled by a keen young Hunter man Stuart Horden. And despite all the doom and gloom about the wine industry, they are approaching the vintage with great energy and respect for Hunter wine styles. Vintage 2010 is an exciting one for the young and the young at heart.
The Hunter Valley finished the calendar year with 680mm of rain and the majority of that in the winter months. Then followed a very warm to hot spring but bud burst and flowering was unaffected. Friday 20th November saw the temperature hit 46C and gave way to one of our more spectacular summer storms. The hail that swept across the lower Hunter Valley, came around the foothills of the Brokenback Range, then swung north east taking in the Graveyard and Verona vines, then across Hope Estate and continued down Palmers Lane and across to the Lovedale region, did a reasonable amount of damage. Vines/grapes and roadside trees took a belting. The Broke/Fordwich area got their turn on the 22nd December. A bit of fruit thinning, even if random, didn’t do too much harm and the continued 40C weather helped dry out the damaged fruit. Rain at the end of December and then again on the 3rd January had the vines in great shape.
Vintage started on the 20th January and all whites picked by 28th, one of the most compressed pickings at Brokenwood. A number of hail affected blocks were fruit thinned through December and this paid dividend as the Semillon and Chardonnay juice are terrific. Varying sugars from 10 baume up to 11.5 for the Semillon and 12.5 to 13 for the Chardonnay. Some reds have been picked in the valley but mainly off very low yielding blocks. The Graveyard, Verona and Mistress Block Shiraz is approximately one week off. This will again be picked over a very short time meaning the Hunter vintage could be all done and dusted by mid February. Quality will be high.
The east coast is back into an El Nino weather pattern and it will be interesting to see if January vintages become the norm for the Hunter Valley. Of our other regions, Beechworth appears to be the pick, with great winter rainfall and a mild to warm summer.
Updated 6th March 2010
The Hunter finished the calendar year with 680mm of rain and the majority of that in the winter months. Then followed a very warm to hot spring but bud burst and flowering was unaffected. Friday 20th November saw the temperature hit 46C and gave way to one of our more spectacular summer storms. The hail that swept across the lower Hunter Valley, came around the foothills of the Brokenback Range, then swung north east taking in the Graveyard and Verona vines. A bit of fruit thinning, even if random, didn’t do too much harm and the continued 40C weather helped dry out the damaged fruit. Rain at the end of December and then again on the 3rd January had the vines in great shape.
Vintage started on the 20th January and all whites picked by 28th, one of the most compressed pickings at Brokenwood. A number of hail affected blocks were fruit thinned through December and this paid dividend as the Semillon and Chardonnay juice are terrific. Varying sugars from 10 baume up to 11.5 for the Semillon and 12.5 to 13 for the Chardonnay. The Graveyard, Verona and Mistress Block Shiraz will again be picked over a very short time meaning the Hunter vintage could be all done and dusted by mid February.
In terms of weather vagaries, 2010 did not ease up. Brokenwood managed to get most of the red grapes in after the 180mm of rain in late January (with another 34mm on 6th February). This timing would not normally present a problem but the early ripening meant the grapes were at their best. Some dilution of sugar levels, say 13.5 down 12.5 baume but the colour was already well established. For the third year in a row all red grapes went over the sorting table. A very good chance of a Graveyard Shiraz.
Cowra was low in crop due to the October frosts and the Orange region gallantly battled the rain only to be on the losing end. Pick of our regions for 2010 is Beechworth followed by McLaren Vale.
Iain Riggs
Chief Winemaker/Managing Director
2009
Preliminary Report 20th January 2009…
Mid January in the Hunter Valley always brings with it a slight nervousness in the wine industry. Having been battered in both previous years – drought in 2007 and pouring rain in 2008, it is no wonder. Black cats are certainly not wanted and ladders given a wide berth.
Vintage 2009 is the task at hand and so far the lead up has been perfect. The rain that plagued the 08 vintage finally eased up at the end of April and then no rain days in May. The middle three winter months normally dry for us saw another 250mm (10inches) and then odd rain days through to the year end. Fruit set was not as complete but resulted in long loose bunches especially in the Shiraz. A good result.
The Southern Oscillation Index has remained in positive territory since August 07, apart from a negative blip in June 08. The Hunter should expect the current patterns to hold. Medium term forecasts have no abnormal rain events. The year ended at 957mm, well above average.
Most of the Hunter has started harvest mainly chardonnay and sparkling base. Brokenwood has picked two blocks of Chardonnay from the Maluna Vineyard. A couple of recent 40C days has shown up the odd bit of stress in the dry land blocks but most Semillon have enough foliage cover to maintain the much desired luminous green berry and juice. We will make a start on the Semillon following Australia Day . Some shiraz in mid February but the Graveyard at the end of that month.
Cowra has also had an even and trouble free lead up with sufficient rain. A good crop level. Beechworth is getting back to speed after 07. Brokenwood will release a number (the excellent Pinot Gris is on sale) 2008 Beechworth wines over the next year including a welcome return of the Pinot Noir. At this point, mid January, the vineyard is just starting to get low on water as the Victorian drought continues. Mclaren vale is in top shape. Healthy vines and a balanced crop level. The recent heat has caused some burning of exposed fruit and may reduce tonnage slightly.
Updated 18th February 2009…
The first day of Graveyard Shiraz, which was all three west old vine blocks, went over the sorting table and well into the night. We have ended up with nearly 175mm (7inches) of rain and as such the decision is to get every red grape off asap. We were going to start anyway as the Shiraz was right to come off, so the quality is very much still there. Approx 13.5 Be and good colour. All the Semillon was in well before the rain, in fact some tanks are out of ferment and heading to being cleaned up.
Early indications are a very good Hunter vintage. Semillon finished at 194t a bit below budget and the first Graveyard Shiraz yesterday at 7.5t with probably 3t on 7acre. Mistress Block will be picked on Friday and the weekend crew will get stuck into Verona.
Cowra has come in way under expectation due to the last round of hot weather. All chardonnay picked – 70t, all Sauvignon Blanc – 130t and the Semillon is expected to be about 130t giving 330t on early expectations of 500t. Quality is OK but juice yield is way down.
Beechworth has again provided a few headaches. The large fire out in the national park has caused a smoke haze at the vineyard but not as bad as previous of 2003 and 2007. The Pinot was picked before the haze and most of the Chardonnay, however Sarah became concerned about taint in the last batches. We have samples at AWRI and will make a decision on the balance of the fruit based on the results. Obviously a big disappointment as we have just got back on track by having wines from the 2008 vintage and now faced with a possible shortfall from 09.
The recent cooler weather in McLaren Vale has been very welcome. The extended heat wave caused some minor damage at Wade and Hugo Vineyards. The Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay were picked at the start of the hot weather and tonnes were down a bit. Reds look great.
The United Nations of Cellar Rats are doing a fine job but will notice a ramp up of activity with reds to plunge.
All the best
Iain Riggs
Managing Director/Chief Winemaker.
2008
Preliminary report 11th January 2008
The very small crop for the 2007 vintage had its genesis in the dry 2006 year, where only 416mm of rain fell. About half the 87 year average of 800mm. January 2007 was dry as was July and October. To then end up with over 1000mm of rain for the year, only the 8th time since 1919, meant some very wet months in between. La Nina was well and truly back. The last year over 1000mm was 1990.
The most significant was the June long weekend floods. While the vineyards benefited, the farming land from Maitland down to Newcastle did suffer. Newcastle itself flooded badly with an estimated 5500 cars written off. That month saw 333mm of rain at Brokenwood, 246mm over the long week end.
So the vines were set for a very good start and bud burst was slightly ahead of schedule. Good ground water and a very hot October saw very good growth. November rain amounted to 190mm and then a further 150 in December and while there was plenty of cloud cover the sub tropical heat was still present.
Pressure on vineyard management saw a helicopter in the area for a few vineyards including Brokenwood. An out break of Fruit Fly in some vineyards proved a new problem. The best solution for this was to green harvest the affected fruit and destroy it. As a result there were some happy porkers at nearby piggeries.
Update 21st February
January finished with 108mm of rain and considerable disease pressure meant all white grapes were harvested by the end of the month. Brokenwood finished up crushing approx 270t of Hunter Valley semillon. A ‘back to the future’ vintage with final alcohols between 9.5 and 10.5%. Very reminiscent of the 1970s. The difference being that now days Hunter winemakers capture the lifted grassy characters of semillon. They will be appealing both as young wines and have the structure to age for many years.
The first 10 days of February saw 170mm of rain that has delayed ripening of the red grapes. Brokenwood launched an attack on the weekend of 16th and 17th picking some of the young vine blocks. Sugars were low, so 20% juice run off and some neutral concentrate boost needed.
All old vine blocks are holding with the forecast showing a small window until major rain expected in the first week of March. The ‘cellar rats’ have been treated to the odd wet year Hunter red being opened for them. A 1984 Graveyard Shiraz from magnum, at 12% alcohol drank superbly.
Picking is underway in Cowra, McLaren Vale and Beechworth.
Iain Riggs
Managing Director/Chief Winemaker
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