Brokenwood

The 9^th Len Evans Tutorial has just been completed here in the Hunter Valley. Started by industry legend, Len Evans in 2001, it initially had as its focus the training of industry personnel to be better wine show judges. I will never forget a conversation with Len about the applicants for the very first group. Caroline Dunn, then red wine maker for the Wolf Blass side of Mildara Blass was amongst them. I made the point that Caroline (who also had several vintages here at Brokenwood) was a wine show judge and that there were in fact several on the circuit from that company. Len sagely observed that the Tutorial will simply make Caroline the best judge in her company. Needless to say Caroline went on to become the first Qantas Dux of the Tutorial and is a brilliant wine show judge.

So, nine years on and 108 scholars have completed the one week intensive course. A course that James Halliday has described as, ‘the most exclusive wine school in the world’. Run as a Foundation, the remaining Trustees decided to continue Len’s vision after his death in August 2006. The Tutors include Evan’s great mate, James Halliday, Ian McKenzie – industry legend and past Chairman of just about every wine show in the country, Brian Croser – needs no introduction, Gary Steel – imported wine specialist, Tim James – industry stalwart and I. Over the past few years the interest has been as strong as ever with over 130 applicants received each year. With such a depth of talent it is very difficult to arrive at the lucky 12 and there is always disappointment. Some don’t bother applying again or some like winemaker Sue Bell who kept applying and on attempt number 6 got a place and then went on to be awarded Qantas Dux.

Brokenwood Wines has been involved right from the outset. Len Evans, as was often his method, rang 12 wine industry companies and told them they were the initial sponsors of the 12 students or scholars as they are known as. Nine years on the initial industry support is still the same, not only coming up with the $5000 each year but donating wine as well. This is backed up by philanthropist Basil Sellers, Australia Post and the Sydney Royal Wine Show and a host of smaller donors. Qantas has also been involved from the first one, offering Business Class return travel to London to the Dux.

The Len Evans Tutorial had an immediate effect with many wine shows inviting scholars to take up judging places. The other impact was (and continues to be) a broad range of professional backgrounds moving into the judging ranks. Evans never considered he was a winemaker and the technical side eluded him but because of his knowledge of the great wines of the world, had lots to say about ‘style’. It was this aspect more than anything that he wanted the Tutorial to succeed at. Therefore the scholars are exposed to a large range of wine from all over the world. The initial idea of better wine judges has given way to providing the industry with better sommeliers, retailers, restaurateurs and wine media, as well as winemakers. All now more capable of focusing their talents on moving Australian wine forward at home and on the world stage.

So, what does the week involve? Obviously judging has to be a big part and this takes the form of 4 sessions featuring Shiraz, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Bordeaux grape styles. The latter allows for a broad church taking into account the 4 main varieties of Bordeaux. Thirty wines notated by a number similar to a wine show and marked out of 20. One concession from the early years is that now the wines are arranged in vintage order. Just like any wine judging the point is not to identify the wine but rather identify with the inherent and intrinsic quality of the wine in front. As an example the Pinot judging had as the first three wines, 1994 Bannockburn Serre, 1998 Bass Phillip and 2000 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti La Tache. The Tutors have in their paper work all the wines, but don’t avail themselves of it and collate their scores away from the Scholars. The Tutors had the Serre on Gold (acknowledging that it was starting to fade but one of Australia’s great Pinots), the Bass Phillip on Bronze and the La Tache on Gold (all five unanimous on 18.5). Not a bad start really and ending up with 11 Golds from the 30 wines. Did I mention the wines are top shelf?

The Scholars scores are recorded and discussion ensues. Only two gave the Serre a Gold, they liked the Bass Phillip more than the Tutors (three Golds then mainly silvers) and everyone bar one, gave the La Tache a Gold. And so it goes for the 120 wines across the judging over 4 sessions. The Masterclasses are open book and deal with prestige Champagne, red and white Burgundy, Riesling and Bordeaux. The evening exercises are masked wines and more relaxed in nature, although not sure the Scholars agree. A typical bracket on Monday night consisted of 7 wines, all chardonnay, all one vintage – 2006, with 3 from Australia, 2 from NZ and 2 French. The French, both Grand Cru – Les Clos and Le Montrachet. The Brokenwood Forest Edge featured and is a top notch modern Aussie. Needless to say no one got the order although some went close.

The week concludes on the Friday morning with the six Grand Cru red vineyards of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. Now, with the generous assistance of the Domaine itself, all from the one vintage – this year 1999. The final 6 wines out of nearly 300 for the week, sum up the vision of Len Evans. Great wines and for many a first taste of wines spoken of in revered terms. Retail cost of the week is never really calculated but these last 6 bottles alone would have a minimum of around $25,000. If procurable.

Has the Evans vision succeeded? Without question. With 108 Scholars making, selling and advising on Australian wine and more to come, the wine industry is better placed than ever to show off its quality credentials and knowledge, both here and abroad.

A full list of wines, reviews and past scholars is at www.lenevanstutorial.com.au