Brokenwood

What part of the world would you be in with over 2000 Riedel glasses lined up, 21 of the best chardonnays from around the globe, wonderful food, set in a picturesque wine region and for good measure throw in a fire eating, kazoo playing Australian music legend?

The answer is the 24^th Annual Cullen Chardonnay tasting held recently in the wonderful Margaret River. First off, the glassware and yes all Riedel, as there are over 100 guests and everyone gets a glass of the 21 wines poured in 3 flights of 7. The tasters know the wines but not the order and everyone scores the wines. To add a bit of interest the attendees are split into ‘Consumer’ and ‘Industry’, with the latter being a mix of winemakers, media, trade and vineyard owners. The identity of the wines not revealed until all score sheets are in.

The tasting was started in 1986 by Di and Kevin Cullen, pioneers of the region and this year the vintage of the wines had progressed to 2005. Generally considered a top year in Europe and pretty smart in Australia. The Aussie contingent was split into Margaret River – 6 wines; rest of Australia – 7 wines; France – 4 and California – 4. Brokenwood was represented by the 2005 Indigo Vineyard and surrounded by the cream Australia has to offer including Coldstream Hills, Eileen Hardy, Yattarna and Giaconda.

Our host Vanya Cullen is not one to back away from a challenge and always includes the top wines from her neighbours, (and direct competitors) such as Cape Mentelle, Leeuwin Estate, Pierro, Vasse Felix and Brookland Valley. The French were all Grand Cru, Bouchard Montrachet, Blain Gagnard Batard-Montrachet, Vougeraie Corton Charlemagne, all from the Cote De Beaune and Laroche Reserve de’L’Obedience, representing Chablis. From the USA, Ramey, Kistler, Aubert and Kongsgaard, all single vineyard wines.

A very impressive group and as each bracket unfolded it became harder and harder to ‘spread the points’, a common refrain to any up and coming wine judge. This taster started out on the cautious side and gave the Vasse Felix a gold with the Laroche Chablis hot on its heels followed up by the Indigo and Brookland Valley. The Indigo having to contend with Barrier 1 but lots of warm rich tropical flavours, in stark contrast to the Chablis which was all mineral and milk stone.

Flight two saw another two golds from me, both on 19 points in fact and both turned out to be Australian. Yattarna is a given for me at any stage especially over the last 8-9 vintages. The swap to screw cap has seen a quantum leap in quality as the wines now maintain freshness and vibrancy. I will admit that my second gold surprised me, the Tapanappa Tiers. A touch oaky perhaps but great length. These two were closely followed by the Corton Charlemagne and Pierro.

The last bracket was a standout. My score sheet ended up with a brace of gold’s and a couple of high silvers for good measure. Gold medal points to the Cullen (phew!), Batard-Montrachet, Leeuwin and the Montrachet being pushed by the Eileen and Giaconda. The white burgundy duo having a degree of finesse and purity that stood out but the results of the room indicated that perhaps too much finesse.

The two Margaret River wines were outstanding with grilled nut aromas, perfect oak and fresh citrus tropical fruit.

Did the Aussies look French and vice versa? No not really as while we have made great inroads into finer, more layered chardonnay, there is still the good old Aussie ripe fruit on the palate. One wine that intrigued was the Batard-Montrachet with almost Chablis or at least Corton Charlemagne like flavours. Distinctive milk-cap aroma with a linear, tight palate. One thing stands out from the above commentary, no mention of the Californian’s. They didn’t rate on my scores at all, in fact filling the last 4 places. While we have done so much to refine and add structure through whole bunch pressing, wild yeast and subtle oak, our American counterparts still prefer the bigger is better path and the use of cork. In terms of the world market, I hope they don’t change.

The aggregate scores proved the next talking point. Due to the large number of scores, a fairly compact range (and mirrors previous years) with no wine actually getting to gold points. The Industry top 5 was Eileen Hardy, Cullen, Leeuwin Estate, Cape Mentelle and Pierro. One could suggest a regional palate but there was a fair proportion of out of towners. The first non Australian, the Montrachet appeared at 8. The Brokenwood sat at 16^th, 1.02 points off the top wine. The Consumer top 5 was Eileen Hardy, Leeuwin Estate, Giaconda, Aubert and then, in a great effort to show up the industry, the Montrachet. They had the Brokenwood higher at 13^th place. The 2009 combined scores reversed the 2008 tasting, with the Eileen Hardy pipping the Leeuwin Estate, followed by Giaconda, Cullen, Pierro and then the Montrachet.

After the tasting, lunch from the Cullen Restaurant kitchen and utilizing organic and biodynamic produce, a lot of which came from their own garden. And the fire eater? None other than Mic Conway and for those old enough, the front man of Captain Matchbox Whoopee Band and co-founder of Circus Oz.

The outcome of the tasting? That Australian Chardonnay is in very good hands indeed and a lot of those good hands just happen to live (but by no means exclusively), in Margaret River.